Our focus today is the anatomy of a sewing machine. Locating parts of a sewing machine is not the only thing found in the User Manual. It is a helpful resource for this lesson and in the future to answer questions that you may have. Refer to the parts diagram in your manual and then identify the part on your actual machine. Your little User Manual is an important part not on your sewing machine!
The Most Basic sewing machine parts
Have the machine in front of you with the needle to your left. Notice the metal stitch plate located below the head of the machine. Your stitch plate may have a single round hole the needle will go through to reach the bobbin thread. The other style of stitch plate has an oblong horizontal opening for the needle. You will also notice vertical lines on the stitch plate. These are seam guides marking the distance from the center needle position and line for precise seams. Guidelines are in fractions of an inch and millimeters.
Do make note of which style stitch plate is on your machine. If you have the single round hole, you will only be able to do straight stitches. You may have received the stitch plate with the wider oblong opening in the accessories that came with the machine. This plate is for doing zig zag stitches, decorative stitches, or if your machine allows left/right movement of the needle. Without the correct stitch plate on, you will get incredibly good at changing broken needles.
needle – a must have part of a sewing machine
Since I mentioned the needle, this is a suitable time to talk about the needle. Right now, I want you to turn the handwheel – a big wheel on the right end of the machine. Watch the needle go up to the highest point and down when most of it is not visible. The needle is vital to good stitches. It will need changed frequently, not just when you break or bend it. Needles do wear out. The sharp point will dull or develop a burr, or the shaft of the needle may bend. You want to always have a package of needles available in the size you most frequently use. You may have two or three needles provided in the accessories that came with the machine.
presser foot and presser foot lifter
I would like to talk about the presser foot and presser foot lifter. The presser foot is the item the needle passes through before it reaches the stitch plate. There are many feet; some are specialty feet you may never need. The feet may be metal, plastic, or a non-stick sole for sewing on such things as vinyl or leather. The purpose of a foot is to press on the fabric moving under it by the feed dogs. Lowering and raising the presser foot lifter determines the position of the presser foot. It will be either behind or to the right side of the foot mechanism. The presser foot should always be in the down position when sewing. The presser foot lifter is raised If removing fabric or threading the machine. More About… will get into some of the more common presser feet and what they are used for.
Feed Dogs
Your sewing machine has two feed dogs that move from front to back. They then drop and reappear when they get back to the front and start all over again. Their purpose is to move fabric under the presser foot from front to back. They know their job and don’t appreciate you if you want to pull the fabric through. Your job is to guide the fabric, letting the feed dogs move the fabric. Once again turn the handwheel and watch the feed dogs at the stitch plate. Imagine the fabric as the teeth push the fabric toward the back of the machine. At the same time the threaded needle goes down to hook the bobbin thread to make the stitch. The entire process repeats itself over and over. Pretty fascinating, isn’t it?
stitch length adjustment
The computerized sewing machine may automatically set the stitch length. Please follow your manual on how to adjust the stitch length you want to use.
The stitch length adjustment on non-computerized sewing machines is easy. Moving a wheel aperture will set the stitch length anywhere from 0 to 5.0. At zero you stitch without moving forward. 5.0 is the longest stitch and used for basting or gathering. Mid-range and normal stitch length is 2.5. Stitch length is adjusted for the type of fabric you are sewing, purpose of the stitches, and if decorative. When in doubt, I start at 2.5 and adjust if necessary.
tension
The tension adjustment on older and basic machines is a knob. Behind it are discs that put tension on the upper thread. When the upper thread reaches the bobbin thread, the stitch is formed. The bobbin thread also goes through a tension adjustment. As the bobbin thread is pulled from the bobbin case the proper tension is made. If both tensions are exactly right, a beautiful stitch is formed in the center of the fabrics being joined. Let one or both tensions be off, you will need your seam ripper. In the Lesson on Tension, tips on when to tighten or loosen tension and by how much will be given.
wrapping up this lesson on parts of a sewing machine
We covered the most basic parts of every sewing machine, computerized and non-computerized. When appropriate in other lessons, I will add to the specifics. Remember, I will be happy to help with any difficulty you have with your sewing machine if you email me.
Shopping list
Next is Lesson #3 Bobbins. You will need a spool of All Purpose black thread and one of white thread. May as well get both while you are shopping. You are getting so close to taking the first stitches!
Previous Lesson link here Let Me Introduce You to Your Sewing Machine -L1; Next Lesson link /bobbins/